The Forêt de Fontainebleau and rock climbing: a world heritage of adventure
Nestled just hour drive south-east of Paris, in Seine et Marne (77), the Forêt de Fontainebleau is a sanctuary of biodiversity and history.
Fontainebleau's own grading system
The site is internationally renowned as one of the largest and most developed bouldering centers in the world. The exceptional quality of the sandstone and the diversity of the rock formations offer over 28,468 climbing routes! A veritable paradise for climbers. The region also owns its own Fontainebleau grading system, a benchmark method for assessing the difficulty of climbing boulders.
Unlike other grading systems, which can be heavily influenced by the physical strength required, the Fontainebleau system values technical skills, finesse of movement, and effective use of the body.
Here's how the grading system works:
➡️ Numbers and letters The system combines numbers and letters to indicate difficulty. The numbers range from 1 to 8, and each number is followed by a letter between 'a' and 'c' to refine the difficulty. For example, a boulder rated "6a" is less difficult than a boulder rated "6b".
➡️ Subdivisions+ and - signs: For even greater precision, a "+" or "-" can be added after the letter to indicate a slightly higher or lower difficulty within that category. For example, "6b+" indicates a level slightly more difficult than "6b", but less than "6c".
**## Let's rewind
**The forest of Fontainebleau, which covers some 25,000 hectares, was first a royal hunting ground before becoming a source of inspiration for the artists and writers of the 19th century. It was at this time that the first "vertical" explorations began. Painters and photographers, in search of unprecedented vantage points, climbed the rocks, unknowingly laying the foundations of rock climbing in Fontainebleau...
It was at the beginning of the 20th century that things gathered pace. The Parisian mountaineers, looking for a training ground between two expeditions to the Alps, discovered the technical challenges offered by sandstone boulders. The "bleausards", as they came to be known, developed specific techniques, and Fontainebleau became an open-air laboratory for bouldering.
Why is Fontainebleau so emblematic?
Fontainebleau is considered one of the world's oldest and best bouldering spots. Why? Because of the quantity of boulders (several thousand) but also the quality of the sandstone, whose fine texture and grip are exceptional. This quality enables climbers to rely on very small foot and hand holds, a crucial factor in bouldering technique. The diversity of the rock, ranging from easy to extremely difficult, also makes Fontainebleau a place where beginners and the world's climbing elite can rub shoulders and progress.
A life-size playground
Every year, Fontainebleau attracts climbers from all horizons. It is estimated that several hundred thousand visitors come to challenge the boulders of Fontainebleau, enjoying the natural beauty and history of the place. What's more, in addition to rock climbing, the forest is a prime location for hiking, mountain biking or nature observation and photography. In other words, Fontainebleau attracts a wide range of visitors!
A success that raises environmental questions
The influx of visitors and the craze for rock climbing at Fontainebleau do, however, raise environmental questions. The preservation of this natural area is a priority and the region has put in place initiatives to minimize the impact of climbing on the ecosystem. In particular, it encourages climbers to follow a code of conduct respectful of the environment, to ensure that Fontainebleau remains a place of practice and inspiration for future generations.
Here are some of these rules:
Respect the environment: Climbers must take care to minimize their impact on nature by staying on marked trails, avoiding trampling vegetation, and leaving no trace of their passage.
Waste management: It is imperative to collect all garbage, including cigarette butts and tissues, and to take them away for disposal in appropriate garbage cans. Leaving litter behind can harm local flora and fauna.
Use of magnesia: Although the use of magnesia (hand-drying powder) is common in climbing, in Fontainebleau it is recommended to use magnesia sparingly to avoid bleaching the rocks and harming the ecological balance. Some advocate the use of liquid chalk, or no chalk at all.
Respect for other visitors: Fontainebleau is a site frequented by many visitors, not just climbers. It's important to respect other park users, by keeping the volume low and sharing spaces courteously.
Natural toilets: If you need to go to the toilet, do so at a reasonable distance from the trails and climbing areas, and bury your biological waste.
Respecting prohibitions: Certain areas may be temporarily closed for ecological or heritage preservation reasons. It is crucial to respect these restrictions and not to climb in these areas.
Conclusion
The Fontainebleau forest is in fact much more than a climbing spot; it is a natural and cultural heritage, a place of history and adventure where the passion for climbing has been passed down from generation to generation. Come and discover this exceptional spot just a few hours from Paris 😁
