The Forêt de Fontainebleau and climbing: a world heritage of adventure
Nestled an hour's drive south-east of Paris, in Seine et Marne (77), the Fontainebleau forest is a sanctuary of biodiversity and history.
A rating system unique to Fontainebleau
The site is internationally renowned as one of the world's largest and most developed bouldering centers. The exceptional quality of the sandstone and the diversity of the rock formations offer over 28,468 climbing routes! A true climber's paradise. The region also owns the Fontainebleau rating system, a benchmark method for assessing the difficulty of boulders.
Unlike other rating systems, which can be heavily influenced by the physical strength required, the Fontainebleau system values technical skill, finesse of movement and efficient use of the body.
Here's how this rating system works:
➡️ Numbers and letters The system combines numbers and letters to indicate difficulty. The numbers range from 1 to 8, and each number is followed by a letter between 'a' and 'c' to refine the difficulty. For example, a boulder rated "6a" is less difficult than one rated "6b".
➡️ Subdivisions+ and - signs: For even greater precision, a "+" or "-" can be added after the letter to indicate a slightly higher or lower difficulty within that category. For example, "6b+" indicates a level slightly more difficult than "6b", but less than "6c".
Let's rewind
The Fontainebleau forest, which covers some 25,000 hectares, was originally a royal hunting ground before becoming a source of inspiration for 19th-century artists and writers. It was at this time that the first "vertical" explorations began. Painters and photographers, in search of unprecedented vantage points, climbed the rocks, unknowingly laying the foundations of rock-climbing in Fontainebleau...
It was at the beginning of the 20th century that things really took off. Parisian mountaineers, looking for a training ground between two expeditions to the Alps, discovered the technical challenges offered by sandstone boulders. The "bleausards", as they came to be known, developed specific techniques, and Fontainebleau became an open-air laboratory for bouldering.
Why is Fontainebleau so emblematic?
Fontainebleau is considered one of the oldest and best bouldering spots in the world. What makes it so iconic? Because of the sheer number of boulders**(several thousand**), but also because of the quality of the sandstone, with its fine texture and exceptional grip. This quality enables climbers to rely on very small hand and foot holds, a crucial factor in bouldering technique. The diversity of the rock, ranging from easy to extremely difficult, also makes Fontainebleau a place where beginners and the world's climbing elite can rub shoulders and progress.
A life-size playground
Every year, Fontainebleau attracts climbers from all walks of life. It is estimated that several hundred thousand visitors come to challenge the boulders of Fontainebleau, enjoying the natural beauty and history of the area. What's more, in addition to climbing, the forest is a prime location for hiking, mountain biking, nature observation and photography. In other words, Fontainebleau attracts a wide range of visitors!
A success that raises environmental questions
The influx of visitors and the popularity of climbing at Fontainebleau do, however, raise environmental questions. The preservation of this natural area is a priority, and the region has put in place initiatives to minimize the impact of climbing on the ecosystem. In particular, it encourages climbers to follow an environmentally-friendly code of conduct, to ensure that Fontainebleau remains a place of practice and inspiration for future generations.
Here are some of these rules:
Respect the environment: Climbers must take care to minimize their impact on nature by staying on marked trails, avoiding trampling vegetation, and leaving no trace of their passage.
Waste management: It is imperative to collect all waste, including cigarette butts and tissues, and to dispose of it in the appropriate garbage cans. Leaving litter behind can harm local flora and fauna.
Use of magnesia: Although the use of magnesia (hand-drying powder) is common in climbing, in Fontainebleau it is recommended to use magnesia sparingly to avoid bleaching the rocks and damaging the ecological balance. Some advocate the use of liquid chalk, or no chalk at all.
Respect for other visitors: Fontainebleau is a site frequented by many visitors, not just climbers. It's important to respect other park users, by keeping noise levels low and sharing spaces in a courteous manner.
Natural toilets: If you need to use the toilet, do so at a reasonable distance from trails and climbing areas, and bury your organic waste.
Respecting prohibitions: Certain areas may be temporarily closed for ecological or heritage preservation reasons. It is crucial to respect these restrictions and not to climb in these areas.
Conclusion
The Fontainebleau forest is in fact much more than a climbing spot; it's a natural and cultural heritage, a place of history and adventure where the passion for climbing has been passed down from generation to generation. Come and discover this exceptional spot just a few hours from Paris 😁
