The origins of surfing: How, when and where did it originate?

The origins of surfing go back centuries, when the first communities of the Hawaiian Islands glided over the waves. Hawaii is the cradle of the sport, where the sea is not just a place of leisure, but a central element of life and spirituality. Surfers of the time, masters in the art of riding the waves, were seen as figureheads within their communities, embodying both bravery and harmony with the ocean.

The surfboard, originally fashioned from the wood of local trees (removing splinters must have been a common practice at the time 😅 ), symbolized the inseparable bond between man, nature and the wave. Today, Hawaii is a source of inspiration for surfers the world over, eager to immerse themselves in the very essence of this discipline.

Surfing has travelled through the ages from its ancestral origins in Hawaii, evolving from a cultural practice to a global sport thanks to iconic figures such as Duke Kahanamoku, Tom Blake and Kelly Slater. These pioneers of modern surfing revolutionized the way waves are ridden and left an indelible mark on the sport's history.

Duke Kahanamoku, the inventor of modern surfing

Duke Kahanamoku was instrumental in popularizing surfing far beyond the Hawaiian coast. His spectacular demonstrations, notably in the USA and Australia, captured the imagination of thousands and sowed the seeds of what was to become a worldwide passion.

Duke not only introduced surfing as a fun activity, he embodied the spirit of surfing, highlighting the values of respect and connection with the ocean. His contribution goes beyond the mere practice of the sport, through the preservation of Hawaiian culture and the transmission of an age-old tradition.

Tom Blake, founder of Californian surf culture

Tom Blake is credited with bringing important technical innovations to the sport of surfing. The introduction of the "hollow" plywood board revolutionized board design, offering surfers greater lightness, speed and maneuverability.

The removable fin, another of his inventions, gave boards greater control, changing the way waves were surfed. Blake not only influenced surfboard design, but also contributed to the rise of surfing in California, helping to transform the state into an epicenter of surf culture.

Kelly Slater, the best surfer of all time

Kelly Slater has left his mark on surfing history through his exceptional performances and his influence on the sport. An eleven-time world champion, Slater redefined the standards of competitive surfing with his innovative style and mastery of the waves.

Beyond his competitive success, Kelly Slater has contributed to the evolution of surfing through his initiatives in sustainable development and innovative board design. He heads a company that produces eco-friendly surfboards, showing by example how the surf industry can help protect the oceans.

What's more, his involvement in the creation of high-quality artificial waves has opened up new possibilities for surfing, enabling the sport to be practiced in remote coastal regions and contributing to its worldwide popularization.

Kelly Slater thus embodies the convergence of athletic performance, environmental commitment and technical innovation, perfectly illustrating the way in which the great figures of surfing continue to shape and redefine the sport. His legacy transcends his championship titles and profoundly influences surfing culture and its future.

Surfing, originally practiced on the sunny beaches of Hawaii, has spread around the world. The sport has crossed oceans (fortunately not in surf 😅 ) to become a global discipline, making its mark on every continent.

In France, the beaches of Biarritz, Hossegor and Lacanau, to name but a few, have become world-renowned surf spots, attracting surfers from all walks of life. These sites have helped establish France as a key venue for international competitions. The quality of the waves, combined with the cultural richness of the region, offers a unique experience, making France a pillar of European surfing.

Surfing, the Olympic sport

Over the years, surfing has evolved from a simple leisure activity to a competitive sport, integrating innovative materials into board design and modifying the competition code. Constant innovation in techniques and equipment has enabled surfers to ride ever-higher waves, pushing back the limits of what they can achieve.

The culmination of this evolution came in the form of an Olympic dimension at Tokyo 2020, where it was presented as an additional sport for the first time. This inclusion will be renewed at the Paris 2024 Olympic Games.

These major milestones in the history of surfing underline the exponential growth of the sport and its ability to captivate a global audience. With Tahiti chosen as the spot for surfing events at the Paris 2024 Olympic Games, surfing confirms its place among the most prestigious and universal sports.

Surfing accessible to as many people as possible

Beyond podiums and medals, surfing has made itself accessible to the greatest number, breaking the image of a sport reserved for elite athletes (no one has to surf 4-meter waves! 😥 ).

This democratization has been accompanied by innovations making surfing more accessible and safer for beginners. Surf schools are springing up on coasts the world over, offering introductory courses suitable for all ages, more stable boards and wetsuits for all seasons.